Method of making boots and shoes.



H. A. DAVENPORT. METHOD OF MAKING BOOTS AND SHOES.

} APPLICATION FILED APR. 28, 1915.

Patented-Jan. 18, 1910 v n earns re T rerun HERMAN A. DAVENPORT. OFBROCKTON. MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OFPATTERSON, JERSEY.

NEW JERSEY, A' conronarron '05 NEW METHOD OF MAKING BOOTS AND SHOES.

' Application Med April 28.

To all 'lfl/LOHZ it may concern Be it known that I. lilnanwx Davnxrolrr,a citizen of the United States. residing at Brockton, in the county ofPlymouth and State of lilassaclmsetts, have invented certain ne anduseful Improvements in Methods of Making Boots and Shoes; and I dohereby declare the following to he a full, clear, 2 nd exact descriptionof the invention, such as will, enahle others skilled in the art towhich it appertains to make and use the same.

The present invention relates to a method of making boots and shoes andmore particw larly to a method (it-making welt shoes.

In aceen'dance with the usual method of making welt shoes it iseustomarv to take a Hat block sole which conforms in general outline tothe desired shape, and to lay this sole upon a partially completed shoe.securing it temporarily in place by cement or other adhesive substance.The sole laying operation the dual function of tempo arily securing theoutsole to the welted shoe and shaping the outsole to approxi mately thedesired. form, hotlntransv*rsely and in. a longitudinal direction. Thisshaping of the sole is accomplished by a yielding curved pressing padwhich engages with the outsole over substantially the entire area toimpart the desired curvature to the sole. The transverse curvatureimparted to the sole serves to hring the margins of the sole, especiallyat the shank, into close proximity to the lasted upper. In that class ofshoes having what is known as a close shanlcin which the margins of thesole, especially at the inner side of the shank, are located in close.proximity to the upper, the projecting margin of the block sole isbrought into contact with the lasted upper it it is attempted in thesole laying operation to impart approximately the desired degree oftransverse curvature to the sole. The projection of the margin in thismanner into close proximity with thelasted upper not only interferesWith the subsequent operations which are performed upon the shoe, butsoinetiines necessitates the forcing of the marginal portion of the soleav'ay from the shoe and tends to counter-act, at least in part, theheneficial results of the sole laying operation. After the solelayingoperation the edges of the outsole and Welt are trimmed toapproxi- Specification of Letters Patent.

v Patented Jain-18, iii-i ti 1915. Serial No. 24,442.

mately the desired shape hv romidine," mechanism which is controlled bya guide entering the crease formed or the. junction of the welt andupper. If the marginal portion of the outside has forced the welt intocloseproximity to the vamp portion of the upper the crease guide isunaole to enter tullv into the crease and the trimming operation formstoo great an extension edge. This in turn elleets the location of theoutseam. which follows the contour of the sole. and the line of stitchesat ,the shank instad of extending through the sole and welt in closeproxiniitv to the inseannmayhe spaced at a considerable distancetherefrom. Finally. in the sole leveling operation when it desired toform a close shank and bring the marginal portions oi the sole intoclose proxii'nitv to the upper in, order that the sole shall have auniform transverse curvature throughout the entire width, the outermarginal portion of the sole hinges at the outseam and if this seam isnot located properlv with relation to the inseam the sole cannot heshaped as desired.

According to the n-esent improved method the foregoing and'otherdisadvantage are eliminated and the various operations may he performedupon the sole in the proper sequence and without interference to shapethe outsole to the desired curvature and permit of its incorporation inthe shoe.

To this end a feature of the invention consists in molding a fiat soleto impart a pre determined transverse (airvature to the Pen tral portionof 'a flat sole and a reverse curvature to the marginal portion of the,

sole to cause the margin of the sole to stand out from the lasted upperwhen the sole is laid, while maintaining the. predetermined cur *aturewhich has been ii'nparted thereto. This method, as above outlined,permits the desired transverse curvature to be imparted to the solebefore its incorpartion in a hoot or'shoe Without affectingdetrimentally the subsequent operations which are performed upon theshoe after the sole has been laid.

In the accompanying drawings illustrating the several steps in thepresent improved method of making a Welt shoe; Figure 1 represents across section of a block sole with the two cooperating molding forms forimparting the desired curvature to the sole; Fig. 2 represents a crosssection of a lasted and welted shoe with the sole laid thereon,

taken upon the line 22 of Fig. 3; and Fig. I

3 represents a side elevation of the shoe shown in Fig. 2.

,In the manufacture of welt shoes the out;

sole before being incorporated in the boot or shoe is blocked out toapproximately the desired shape and somewhah larger than the final sizein order that it faliall project be--' yond the welt around the entiremargin of.-

sole throughout the entire width to impart a predetermined transversecurvature to the central portion of the sole and a reverse curvature tothe marginal portions of the sole to cause the edges of the sole tostand out from the lasted upper of the shoe when the sole is laid.Although in the preferred embodiment of the invention the molding dormsengage with the sole throughout its entire width, it is obvious that ifso desired the molds may be arranged toengage only with the centralportion of the sole and a suiiicient portion of the margin to impart areverse break to the sole adjacent to the marginal portions, causing theedges of the sole to stand out. 'After thesole has been molded, as abovedescribed, it is laid upon the welted shoe in the manner shown in -Figs.2 and 3 with the marginal portion engaging with and extending beyond thewelt 3 and the central portion conforming closely to the shoe bottom andsurrounding the shank piecea. The outsole shaped in this mannpr conformsclosely to the shoe bottom and the marginal-portions contact with theoutstanding welt and. may be secured thereto 40 by adhesive materialwithout depressing the welt into contact with the vamp portion of theupper, especially at the inner side of the shank.- With the sole laid inthis manner upon the welted shoe the subsequent operations upon the shoeincluding the rounding of the sole, the. sewing of the out- .seam, andthe levelingof the sole are facilitated as previously described.

Although the present invention contemplatesa method of making boots andshoes which consists in imparting a predetermined transverse curvatureto the central portion the shoe.

While it is preferred to employ the specific construction andarrangements of parts shown and described, it will be understood thatthis construction and arrangement is not essential except so far asspecified in the claims, and maybe changed or modified without departingfrom the broader features of the invention.

The invention having been described, I what'is claimed is; p

1. The method of making boots andshoes which comprises molding a fiatsole to impart a predetermined transverse curvature to the centralportion of the sole and a reverse curvature to the marginal portion ofthe sole to cause the margin of the sole to stand out from the lastedupper when the sole is laid and laying the molded sole upon a lastedshoe while maintaining the predetermined curvature which has beenimparted thereto. p

2, The method ofmaking boots and shoes which comprises molding a flatblock'sole larger than the final desired size to impart a predeterminedtransverse curvature to the central portion of thesole, and a reverse'urvature to the opposite marginal portions of the sole to cause themargins of the sole to stand out from the lasted upper when the sole islaid, and laying the molded sole upon a welted shoe with the outstandingmargins of the sole engaging with the welt while 1 maintaining thepredetermined curvature which has been imparted to the sole.

HERMAN A. DAVENPORT.

